Maine, September 2012
It's true! Maine's coastline measures 3,478 miles as compared to California's 840 miles.
See a more concise itinerary at the end.
Saturday: We flew into Baltimore and then to Manchester, NH. Got there about 3:30 pm. We picked up our rental car and drove to Portland. We checked in at the Howard Johnson’s on Riverside (clean and inexpensive) and asked for a suggestion for dinner. They suggested Dimello’s.
They said it was a floating restaurant. I wasn’t sure if I believed it because it was large and didn’t look like a boat and once we were inside it seemed very stable. We had lobster stew, spinach salad, pumpkin head shipyard brewing company beer, steamed lobster, and baked potato. Just after dinner I finished my wine and then felt as if I was getting really dizzy which is very unsettling your first night of vacation! But it turned out that the restaurant really did float and it was moving! Wow – that was a relief. There was a storm out at sea and quite windy which is what caused it to move. It was fairly noisy here – would not recommend for a romantic dinner. They sat us upstairs – it might be quieter downstairs – not sure. Then we went back to the Howard Johnson’s. The room was nice. It had a couch and a coffee table, microwave and refrigerator. It was quiet and the bed was comfortable and the staff was so nice. $125.15
Sunday: Got up at 6:30 am and went to breakfast at the Howard Johnson’s restaurant about 7:30 am. Had banana bread French toast, eggs and bacon. Then about 8 or 8:30 we left to see the Portland Headlight. I think temperature was in the 60s. Stayed 1.5 or 2 hours so we left around 10:30 or 11.
Portland Head Lighthouse
Then we left for Pemaquid lighthouse. Got there? Around noon. Visited the ladies room which was very clean. Visited their art gallery – very nice paintings in there. Really loved the crashing waves here. Went up into the lighthouse – it was 30 some steps and a short ladder. Great views from up here – could see Monhegan island from there.
Sat on the boulders awhile just to watch the water. So relaxing here.
We ate lunch about 2pm next door – we both had the 3oz lobster roll. It was good. This was our first lobster roll so we didn’t have anything to judge it against. We left around 3pm after using the .25 cent pay toilet – which was out of soap and paper towel. There might have been a restroom in the restaurant?
Pemaquid
The neighborhoods look cute here on our way back out – looks like lots of property for sale. We stayed too long at Pemaquid and broke the speed limit all the way to make it to Hearthside (a B&B) because we wanted to be there by 6pm. We walked to downtown Bar Harbor and saw the best sunset! Susan (of Susan and Barry, B&B keepers) suggested Galyn’s for dinner and it was very good. We sat outside. Waitress Lucy was very nice and attentive. Had crab cakes which were really good. Lots of crab meat and blueberry ale by Atlantic Brewing Lafayette shrimp with linguini, and for dessert apple/blueberry crisp and indian pudding with ice cream.
Walked back to Hearthside to the Prince Albert room (bathroom down the hall –bathroom used only by us). Nice room – quiet – comfortable. 139.00 a night here.
Bar Harbor
Monday: In the bedroom there were 2 chairs and a small table in between, a dresser with a mirror and a fold down writing desk, two end tables with lamps and a closet with 2 robes. There was also an air conditioner.
Got dressed & walked downtown about 7am to take a few pictures and then came back around 7:40 am and waited on the 8am breakfast. Had cinnamon raisin French toast (with the option to have plain French toast) and a ham slice. Also a blueberry/raspberry compote that was very good. Everything was very good. The owners are very helpful with tips on things to do and were so nice.
Left around 9am for Acadia National park. Went to Sand beach first. Loved the wave action – more dramatic than most beaches I’m used to – perhaps water & land were at a steeper angle. Found some sea glass – green and clear and brown. Couldn’t find any complete shells. Either other people already got them or they all get bashed by the waves.
Then drove around the park loop – stopped at an overlook – a man was painting here – we saw otter point and then came Jordan Pond House. We got there just after 11am which was really good timing. We were pretty close to the beginning of the line. They didn’t open till 11:30. The closest parking area was full but there were plenty of spots in the North parking lot. I had strawberry lemonade with the sweetener on the side which was nice and the first time I’ve ever been offered sweetener on the side. Everyone comes here to eat popovers on the lawn. We had to sit inside instead of on the lawn because they said there was a strong north wind. Afterward we went out and walked the nature trail. Took pictures of the bubbles & visited the gift shop. Went back to the car – lot VERY full now – people parking on sides of road & anywhere they could fit. That was probably between 1 and 2pm.
The Bubbles, from Acadia Nat’l Park
Tried to call Bar Harbor whale watch to reserve a spot but AT&T phone reception was not good enough. Once we got to the top of Cadillac mountain I was able to call and reserve 2 places at 1pm the next day and we had to be there at 12:15. I took a scarf and gloves for the boat ride. Then we went to thunder hole and sat on the boulders along time from around 3pm to a little after 5pm waiting on high tide. Lots of people here and it really impeded getting any good pictures. High tide was at 7pm – we didn’t wait that long – water never got to a spectacular height but still enjoyed the time here.
Then we left the park and went to get gas at the Citgo near Hearthside and went back to Heathside – it is windy now. Changed clothes and walked to Poor Boys where we had some baked lobster & shrimp & crab dish, haddock with crackers – and blueberry beer. Afterward we went to Ben & Bills chocolate emporium where I got some dark chocolate pecan bark and a scoop of KGB which was ice cream with Kahlua, Baileys & Grand Mariner, also tasted their lobster ice cream – not bad. Tomorrow we do Bass Harbor and the whale watch.
Tuesday: 6am getting ready for the day. Can hear laughing gulls thru the window. We went out to breakfast. I loved visiting with the other guests at the B&B but we were so anxious to get going we just couldn’t wait until breakfast was served at 8am.
We went to the Cottage Street bakery restaurant at the corner of High and Cottage streets. I had eggs and a blueberry pancake and ordered the Maine maple syrup. Michael had a lobster omelet. We left for Bass harbor lighthouse which was being restored/repaired and took a few pictures. Couldn’t get the iconic shots because of the scaffolding. To get that shot you see on the internet walk the trail that starts at the restrooms and climb out on the rocks – but beware – sudden waves can wash you out into the ocean. Then we went back to Bar Harbor and parked at Hearthside and we walked to downtown and bought our whale watch tickets and ate lunch next door at Fish grill restaurant. We had the special. A lobster roll that came with very thick and good clam chowder. Unfortunately even though we were out there 4 hours we saw no whales on the trip and got free vouchers for another trip.
We went to dinner at Stewman’s and had ice cream at Mt Desert ice cream. Stewman’s had an uninspired menu – wouldn’t go back. But Mt Desert Ice Cream was quite good.
Wednesday: We checked out of the B&B and once again declined breakfast. We went to “Two Cats” just around the corner at 7:30 for breakfast which was very good. There are 2 resident cats. One was George who shares himself with anyone who shows interest. He sat on my lap for most of my breakfast. The other cat named Baby, a female prefers to lay in the sun or on a car. Then we left around 8:30 for Schoodic Peninsula. Great pictures opportunities here. Then around 10am we left for Port Clyde. We stopped at the Penobscot Observatory and Ft Knox and then got to Port Clyde about 4:15. We are staying at Port Clyde to catch a ferry (MonheganBoat.com) to Monhegan Island the next day.
We went to Marshall point lighthouse and looked for the beach – but the tide was out or something and it wasn’t very scenic. Lighthouse was good. This is the one shown at the end of Forrest Gump’s cross country run (in the movie Forrest Gump). We had dinner at the Dip Net (there aren’t many choices of restaurants – its a very small town). I had a haddock fish sand which came with fries and clam chowder – not as good as yesterday’s clam chowder. Michael had lobster ravioli. The Seaside Inn keeper had told us strangers might sit at our table – which didn’t bother us. We sat at an empty table and not long afterward an older gentleman joined us and then another couple. Both were going to Monhegan the next day. Mosquitos got annoying here around sundown.
Marshall Point
Thursday: Got up at 5ish – or a little before. The Seaside room was a little too small but the shower was ok. The toilet and sink were on the other side of a wall. $140 a nite here. We declined the muffin breakfast and decided to get a sandwich like an egg mcmuffin at the general store. Yum. I moved the car to the Monhegan Boat parking lot and went in the store and got tickets. I had Reserved and paid for this in advance $74 for roundtrip ferry ride and parking overnight. We met a really nice guy (Monhegan boat line employee) but I forgot to ask his name. He had just cleaned the port-a-potty which was the cleanest I have ever used.
We boarded the Laura B (the name of the ferry) at 7am. First we watched them load a hot water heater and some firewood. The water was very calm. We arrived at the island about 8am. A truck was waiting for us and took our bags all the way to our 3rd floor room in the Island Inn. We walked up to the Inn and met a nice guy named Bob out front. I think he was a painter. He’s a summer resident. Lots of artists here. I felt right at home. We left to walk on the trails. We did #7 which was our favorite. We saw whitehead and blackhead and Burnt head. Here’s a map:http://www.monheganassociates.org/trails/map.htm
I think we were standing on Whitehead. Then we did the lobster cove trail – after some ice cream at a store called Novelty. I had blueberry which was good but the flavor was very mild. We didn’t spend long at lobster cove. The only public restroom on the island is behind Novelty. We visited swim beach and then fish beach and we both had the crab cake burger and lobster bisque – tomato based & no chunks in the bisque. Very good. I collected some shells and rocks for my art projects. Looked in a couple of shops and 1 gallery called Black Duck. Then we did trail #4 and saw Burnt head. We saw a pheasant on the trail. I’m pretty tired by now, its time to look for beer and wine.
We found libations at the Barnacle Café (note the Novelty shop will chill a bottle for you). We sat on the adirondak chairs on the porch at the Island Inn and drank our drinks. I’m shielding my eyes from the setting sun even though I tried moving my chair – hate to miss the view. Drank blueberry soda too.
View Near Our Room At The Island Inn on Monhegan
Thought we’d better ask about dinner at the Inn and it was a good thing – oops I forgot to make a reservation but we got one at 6:15. The whole lobster had big claws – very good. This was probably the best lobster we had while visiting Maine. I had the duck with vanilla and lavender reduction and roasted figs. I was surprised to get such good food on an island. It was getting warm in the dining room by the time we were done. We went outside to sit awhile & cooled off easily in the breezy cool air. Went up to the room which was warm too. Showered which helped. We should have asked if they had a fan? Even though it was chilly outside it was warm in the room with just 1 window open. There was no screen in the bathroom so I didn’t want to leave it open in case the mosquitoes got too bad. We had an ocean view room which I enjoyed. It was clean and the only issue was the temperature but in their defense I didn’t ask about a fan.
Friday: Got up around ? 6am I think – sad to leave Monhegan, I loved it. $250.00 here for a queen ocean view room with its own bathroom. We took pictures till 7:30 am when they opened for breakfast (buffet). Had lobster scrambled eggs and potatoes and bacon and the best thing was blueberry stuffed French toast! Then we watched them load a truck on the ferry – also a couple was taking their dog to the vet. They have to bring everything to and from the island on these ferries. There are very few vehicles on the island.
We drove to Camden but it was foggy so we didn’t ride on the Schooner Surprise as we had planned. We let them know we were leaving. Then we left and went to Owl’s Head lighthouse and then went on to Boothbay where we checked in to the Sprucewold Lodge on 4 Nahandada Rd. Nice queen corner room. $119.84 a night here. Then we went down to the harbor for a ride on the Lazy Jack (vintage sailing boat) with captain Joe. I wish we would have gotten a picture of her with the sails up. When we got back in we ate dinner at the Knot Gray which was mostly a bar. Sat outside. I had the Sweet Thai shrimp wrap which was SO good! Michael had a lobster – whole. Smaller claws than the one on Monhegan. Then we went back to the Lodge. This place was hand-hewn in the 1920s and is thought to be the largest log cabin east of the Mississippi. We enjoyed the room and the hospitality of the host.
Saturday: Breakfast at 8am – corn cranberry muffins, turkey sausage, pork sausage, bacon, eggs, oatmeal pancakes, blueberry pancakes. Very good. Went downtown to take pictures. Then we left for Portland. It was lighthouse day. There is one day a year when you can get into some of the lighthouses they don’t normally let you in to. Hoped to go in the lighthouse but tickets were already gone. I didn’t realize they hand these out first thing in the morning. Took pictures and went downtown. We ate clamburgers at Portland Lobster Company because Street & Company (who have really good reviews online) wasn’t open until dinner. Good but not as good as the crabcake burgers on Monhegan. We left for Manchester. Took a detour to York to see the Nubble Light. That was a good one! Not far off the highway really. 3 miles I think. Then drove to Best Western in Manchester. $112.80 a nite here. We ate at Friendly’s for an inexpensive bite.
Maine is SO beautiful and we hated to leave.
Itinerary:
We spent 2 days traveling and 7 days sightseeing.
Sat: Arrived in Manchester, NH and drove to Howard Johnson's in Portland, ME.
Sun: Saw Portland Headlight. Then drove to Pemaquid Point to see the lighthouse and have lunch. Stayed tonight at Hearthside Inn in Bar Harbor.
Mon: Breakfast at Hearthside then went to Acadia National Park to see Sand Beach. Drove Park Loop to Jordan Pond House for lunch. Went to Cadillac mountain. Went to thunder hole. Then back to Bar Harbor for dinner.
Tue: Went to Bass Harbor Lighthouse. Then went back to Bar Harbor to get ready for a whale watch boat ride we scheduled.
Wed: Checked out of Hearthside. Drove to Schoodic Penninsula. Then we went to Port Clyde to spend the night. We also visited Marshall Point Lighthouse.
Thur: Checked out of Port Clyde hotel and walked across the street to catch the ferry to Monhegan Island. Checked in to the Island Inn and walked around town and on some trails. We loved it here.
Fri: Checked out of Island Inn and took the ferry back to Port Clyde. Went to Owls Head Lighthouse & then drove to Boothbay and took a ride on the Lazy Jack Vintage sailing boat. We checked in to the Sprucewold Lodge.
Sat: Checked out of Sprucewold and went downtown for pictures and then drove back to Portland and visited the Portland Head light again. Drove to see the Nubble Lighthouse and then to the Best Western in Manchester and flew back on Sunday.